View from the ground: Resolve Uganda field researcher reflects on recent CHOGM events

"More than a Fleeting Moment?" - Kenny Ferenchak, Resolve Uganda Field Researcher

Kampala, Uganda --- New hotels being constructed seemingly at every turn; smooth tarmac poured over roads that have never known anything besides the red, dusty soil; an increasing number of vehicles with each passing day, and the thickening traffic that they bring with it; restaurants opening their doors with cuisines completely novel to the local tastes; individuals strolling the streets representing almost every hue in the globe’s rainbow of nationalities; the world’s gaze in the form of press from continents far and wide—all of these sights paint a sweeping portrait of the experience in Kampala in recent days as the Ugandan capital readied itself for dignitaries from across the world with the 2007 Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting (CHOGM), but they can just as easily relay the scene in the northern town of Gulu as it emerges from two decades of devastating conflict.

Anyone who has visited Kampala in the past couple of years or has glanced at any of the local press in that time can attest to the excitement that this weekend’s festivities has stirred in the east African capital.  The sprawling hub of Ugandan life has played host to a line of foreign dignitaries from the Commonwealth’s 53 member states, highlighted by the Queen of England’s first visit in over 50 years to the ‘Pearl’ and first ever to its current capital.  This was its chance to show off to the world what a promising center it is for international investment and regional leadership, and no effort was spared to take full advantage of the opportunity.  The Government of Uganda offered up a sizable portion of its limited budget and local entrepreneurs followed in line to give Kampala a bright new face to show to the world.

With so much attention, resources, and energy devoted to one weekend, there was obviously much skepticism as well.  When ten times that spent on recent flood relief goes to the CHOGM budget and precious millions of schillings are spent on flowers and fine wines alone, many rightfully questioned whether Uganda had its priorities in proper order.  Nevertheless, the potential returns from the investment, if realized, would be enough to silence any critics.  Rarely does an emerging nation have such an opportunity to put itself on showcase—CHOGM really has been Kampala’s own 2008 Beijing Summer Games.  If all goes smoothly, Uganda will enjoy for years the investment and confidence of the international community that will come from the weekend’s conference.

332 kilometers to the north, a similar transformation has taken shape in the once quiet, dusty district center of Gulu over the past few years.  No constant procession of motorcades or freshly planted roadside flower gardens were visible this past weekend for CHOGM, but the town has gradually experienced effects similar to those felt in Kampala as the international community has awakened from its inexcusable years of slumber in recognizing the northern Ugandan conflict.  Though violence largely erupted in the area with the coming to power of the Museveni regime in 1986, there was almost a complete vacuum of international presence until a few NGOs showed up near the turn of the millennium.  It has only been in the past few years that the world has really opened its eyes to the true extent of the horrors, and in that time there has been a deluge of NGOs, UN agencies, donor governments, and international researchers, all focused on the once relatively remote Gulu town.  Though conditions in the IDP camps which spiral outwards from the town have been stubbornly slow to improve, the regional center has experienced a boom that is not far removed from that seen in Gulu.  With the ever-increasing number of humanitarian and relief agencies appearing on the scene, so have come an ever-increasing number of hotels, restaurants, bars, internet cafes, vehicles, roads, and even a swimming pool!  For years those suffering from the brutal war were crying out to the world to relieve their plight, and in many respects those cries are finally being answered.

Just as in Kampala, however, a moment of the world’s attention is not enough to ensure sustainable benefits.  All of the fuss over CHOGM will have been wasted if the world’s leaders fly out of Entebbe this weekend with no inclination to return bringing their checkbooks or political confidence.  Though the emergency relief and diplomatic attention granted to northern Uganda in recent years has brought noticeable advances toward peace, they will all be for not if the current Juba talks collapse or, perhaps equally threatening, the world turns away once a deal in Juba is signed.  Food aid and ceasefires certainly bring much needed breaks in suffering, but lasting peace can only be realized with sustainable economic development and comprehensive solutions to deep-seated political difficulties.

Uganda looked to CHOGM as an opportunity to catch the world’s attention for hopefully more than just one weekend; Uganda also looks to the interests currently streaming to Gulu to last for more than just the six or tweleve-month missions that has brought many faces to which developments have been directed.